This spectacular trail through the ancient forests of Outeniqua, between George and Knysna on the Garden Route, can be done as a series of day walks or over a period of seven days.
We started on what would technically be Day 3 of the seven-day trail, leaving from Platbos forest hut (where one would overnight at Day 2) and ending at Harkerville Hut, thus hiking five days of the full seven day trail.
Platbos to Millwood (+-18km’s)
This first day of walking gave us a taste of what was to come – lush greenery that enveloped one, with only streaks of sunshine breaking through the forest canopy highlighting the gossamer strands of the spiderwebs that decorated the trunks and branches of the trees. Within the first kilometer of leaving Platbos, we came across signs of elephant – a fresh heap of dung, and broken-off trees and branches lying in disarray across the path. We were stupid with excitement to have seen signs of these mysterious and elusive animals!
Our first rest point was after a ‘hop-skip-and-jump’ river crossing, where the coffee in our cups matched the tannin-rich waters flowing past. As the shadows grew longer, we walked in awe through the decaying ruins held within Millwood area, lost for words at the history that the area is steeped in.
We had expected the day to be around 15km’s; however, be warned that the last part of the day had a sting in the tail – a long, drawn-out uphill on jeep track that we estimated at approximately an additional 4km’s…We arrived at the hut in the dark, pretty worn out; but the braai facilities at the hut gave us a chance to off-load some of the extra weight we were carrying in the form of red wine and lamb chops! And the hot showers were a warm welcome to our aching feet.
A note: there is an old graveyard on the property and the hut is very large and a little creepy, with no electricity provided. While we each could have slept in our own private rooms, we decided to rather co-habit for ‘comfort’ levels 😊
Millwood to Rondebossie Hut (+-17km’s)
Our second day was marked by long ascents and steep descents. Although the majority of the trail is under cover of the trees, it was a challenging and hot day. When we crossed the Knysna river at roughly the 9km mark, the icy water invited us in – and we spent a good hour alternatively munching lunch on the banks of the river and playing in the rushing stream.
It was a welcome stop, because from there on, there was a long and steady uphill on a seemingly unending track before Rondebossie Hut appeared like a beacon through the trees. Here, pace separated the weak from the strong; I’m afraid to admit that this day nearly broke me – a heavy pack, light trail shoes and the undulating hills almost proved too much, and I pretty much crawled the last few kilometres. However, nothing that a cold shower, a sky of magnificent stars, and mampoer for dessert didn’t fix! A very tough day, but a beautiful day nonetheless.
Rondebossie to Diepwalle Hut (+-13km’s)
One of the shorter days of the Outeniqua Trail, I can highly recommend leaving as early as possible. This is for numerous reasons: one being to see the early morning sun rays stream through the pine plantation that one encounters in the first few kilometres of walking.
The second motivation would be to have the afternoon ‘off’ at Diepwalle hut, which (very conveniently) has a nearby restaurant, which (very miraculously) sells delicious, fresh and huge servings of Melktert, which (very coincidentally) our little troupe of six had been craving for the previous two days – but which closes mid-afternoon. Thirdly, this is one of the days that hikers will be left speechless at the beauty that surrounds you, and one certainly needs the time to soak it all in without rushing on.
Dawn light steered us through the pine forest, to the top of Jonkersberg – one of the high points of the Outeniqua Trail. From the summit, we made our way down the ridge line at a brisk march to escape the midday sun, and entered into a fairy glen of thick, boreal forest.
Moss-covered rocks lined the pathway, and twisted age-old indigenous trees dripped with lichen and ‘old-man’s beard’. Roots that followed us for several metres were cushioned by luminous cloaks of fungus, while gargantuan ferns umbrella-d over our heads. Our march halted and we gazed in silence at the Jurassic surrounds, struck by wonder at the ancient growth – and the weightiness of understanding what nature can achieve when left to her own devices. The afternoon continued with many somber pauses, and ended with melktert and quiet fireside chats.
Diepwalle to Fisanthoek Hut (+-16km’s)
From an early start deep in the forest, the trail begun to cut across numerous tracks, paths and river streams as the day progressed. Although a relatively easy day, with few steep inclines and declines, the old legs begun to feel tired, and some of the crew had to take a few swigs of whipskey for ‘sterkte’ along the way 😉 We made every excuse to regroup, have long chats and boil up a quick cup of joe along the way, knowing it was our last long day of hiking; and with plenty of sheltered spots to stop, it was worthwhile taking it slow and breathing in the green, letting it fill up the soul.
We reached Fisanthoek Hut with enough time to enjoy the last warm rays of the day, and enjoyed our last night together as a crew by making a huge pot of chorizo-infused, tomato pasta by headlamp and playing a competitive game of Penny Poephol!
Fisanthoek to Harkerville Hut (12km’s)
The last day of the trail, we took a gentle pace and spent most of the few hours left hiking within earshot and eye-sight of each other – a group of like-minded individuals who had grown close over the five-day period. After a few kilometres, the silence of the forest was broken by the escalating sounds of man as we came closer to civilization (namely, the N2). Fortunately, the last few kilometres of the Outeniqua Trail end in the thickets of the Harkerville forest and for a brief while after crossing the N2, we had the illusion of being entirely separate from the rat race once again.
It was here, just a few km’s short of finishing the Outeniqua Trail, that we were blessed with the rare sighting of not one, nor two, but several Knysna Loeries in flight – their crimson tipped wings flashing overhead as they seemed to chase and dance with one another in the joy of flight. And thus spellbound, we walked out at Harkerville Hut still marveling in wonder and in awe at the magical few days spent deep in the ancient forests of the Outeniqua Trail!
Conclusion:
The Outeniqua Trail is a absolute gem and worth every bit of effort. It is an amazing privilege to be able to walk through such pristine forest. This is a must-do trail for anyone who enjoys multi-day hikes, but be warned, there are some long days and steep hills.
Beauty: 4.5 (of 5)
Difficulty (fitness): 7/10 (Difficult i.e. need to be fit/strong)
Technical rating of trail: Contains short sections of very steep inclines and minor river crossings.
Duration: 5 Days
How to book:
Bookings are made through SANPARKS:
Tel: +27 44 302 5600 (Knysna) or +27 12 428 9111 (central reservations)
Email: reservations@sanparks.org
For more information on the full trail, see: http://www.gardenrouteadventureguide.com/outeniqua-hiking-trail.html
For more information on the Knysna elephants, see: http://www.discover-sedgefield-south-africa.com/Knysna-elephants.html
A very useful article. thank you! this article gives a very good overview of the trail and insider info in terms of what to expect. keep these articles coming!
Fantastic hike and brilliant write up! Makes me long for my student days! Fondest memory of the hike; being the designated front runner and getting countless spiderwebs in the face in the forest! Lol! Think I need to go back for another helping
This is such a lovely article!
As one who has done the hike, I must add that the first hut on the Outeniqua trail is one not to be missed. It is gruelling and hard work especially because we only started at 13:00 but it had the most spectacular views from the saddle it was situated in
Yes – we have subsequently heard so! Will definitely have to return and do the full 7 days! 🙂
Windmeulnek?
Such an awesome write up Dania Petrik. I’m definitely putting this on my list!
Has the route been affected by any of the recent fires?
Fortunately not. The old forest was untouched.
We took the wrong turn-off between Millwood and Rondebossie and walked almost the entire way in burnt down pine forest. The devestation was horrible to see. Between Rondebossie and Diepwalle the first 7kms or so was also very badly affected. The huts were dirty and run down I am sorry to report. The indegenous forest made up for everything.
Apparently 1st part of trail closed, but rodebossie to hakerville open, not sure if this means you must sart at at rodebossie or you start at mill Wood to make Rondebossie your first night?
Actually, Harkerville is closed except for a single day trail. Found this out two weeks ago when we wanted to do a circuit (one day trail is open). But I have done the unthinkable and parked at Farleigh, done the 3 day circuit in reverse in 2 days (Farleigh>Karatara>Windmeulnek>Farleigh). Windmeulnek was spectacular!!! The trail up from Karatara has far better views than the official day 1, but its a climb. You do the ascent in 1/4 of the distance than the normal day 1. Noted the old trail is just that…old and unused…I think the SANParks guys was completely shocked (had to ask them because it isn’t sign posted). I still want to do the old Outeniqua where you start around the other side of the mountain (the trail is still there). Also, the trail between windmeulnek and farleigh was in really bad shape in March 2018 so I am hoping they fixed it up. Oh and Diepwalle was also closed this month (nov 2018) not sure when it will open the hikes.
Thanks for all the valuable information Gerda! That old Outeniqua mission sounds fantastic 😀
I hiked this hike many years ago and remember on one day leaving a hut, hiking straight up to the op of the mountain range and then straight down into the forest full of beautiful tree ferns. Now I would like my family to experience this. However we are not fit enough to do the full 7 days so would like to do the 2 days. Can you advise which days are the most beautiful and in the forest?
Anyone done this recently? I’m hoping to a good post-lockdown hike. So sorry to read some of the posts saying that it is now rundown. Is that still the case? Any updates?
Thank you
Feel free to post your question on our community forum for more input from other hikers: https://community.hikingsouthafrica.co.za/
Hi! Can anyone tell me if Diepwalle has electricity? One of the other websites said it does. This would make a massive difference in the type of gear one can take.
As far as we know, Diepwalle does have electricity, but it’s best to check with SANParks, as things might have changed.
Can you please assist with alternative contact details for the Outeniqua. Numbers 0443025606 and 0443025600 are not working now for longer than 3 weeks!
That’s unfortunate… You’ll have to contact SANParks head office:
reservations@sanparks.org / +27 12 428 9111 or +27 82 233 9111
We are doing this hike next week, any tips on equipment that will help?
This article series should help: https://www.hikingsouthafrica.co.za/packing-for-an-overnight-hike-part-1/
As well as out multi-day packing checklist: https://www.hikingsouthafrica.co.za/multiday-hiking-checklist/
Feel free to post any other questions on our community forum: https://community.hikingsouthafrica.co.za/
We are doing the Outeniqua trail starting on Friday at Milkwood – how do we get to Milkwood by car??
I think the reason you can’t find it is because the name is Millwood, not Milkwood: https://goo.gl/maps/EAqmFMoTQizRdRDt9
I would just like to walk about 3 to 4 times a week in the forest or plantation with a group. Which group can you recommend? I am 61 and medium fit. I use to spin and Zumba but because of covid my gim is frozen. Thank you.
Best place to ask would be our community forum: https://community.hikingsouthafrica.co.za/
I have done the Outeniqua trail and absolutely loved it. Does anyone perhaps know if it might be dog friendly? Or if there are any similar length trails in South Africa which are?